A Sufi Encounter, 1A Sufi Encounter

The Spiritual Traveler


       I first met Leonardo Stout a number of years ago, but the circumstances of that meeting are hazy to me.  I knew he belonged to a Sufi order called the Naqshbandi, and I remember that he struck me as having a very charismatic quality.  At the time, I thought that if I ever wanted to consult with someone who was an authority of spirituality, he would be the right person.  I bumped into him on occasion, but he always seemed to be preoccupied, in the company of other people, or otherwise unapproachable, so I never managed much more than a smile and a brief eye contact, in greeting.  Finally, however, I started to do a series of interviews, and it occurred to me that he would make a good subject.  I knew where he had his shop--a natural healing boutique--and even wrote down my intention to look him up there in the notepad on which I keep my weekly schedule.  But before I was able to follow up on this intention, I suddenly spotted him one day directly across the street.  I ran up to him and breathlessly started peppering him with inquiries.
       "Wait a minute, he stopped me.  "You hardly say a word to me in three years, and all of a sudden you're asking me all these questions?"
        A Sufi Encounter, 2I slowed down, and started telling him about my interview project.  Gradually, he seemed more receptive, and agreed to meet with me again discuss the possibility of an interview in more detail.  The next week I dropped by the shop.  It was a very pleasant place to browse, filled with herbal remedies, scented candles, and soft music.  I was talking with the clerk behind the counter when Leonardo walked in, shook my hand with a smile, and disappeared into the rear of the shop.  I waited for him to make his reappearance.  
         "Do you think he knows I've come to speak to him?" I asked the clerk.  "Maybe he thinks I'm just browsing."
       "I told him," the young man at the counter replied.  "I think he's in prayer."
       "Oh, I see.  I don't want to disturb him.  Perhaps there's a place I can sit down."
       The clerk indicated a narrow hallway with bookshelves on both sides, through which Leonardo had exited.  Beyond this was a small waiting area that contained a couple of plush chairs set in front of a VCR.  I sat down and decided to do a brief contemplation.  I closed my eyes and when I opened them again was surprised to see Leonardo sitting beside me, also engaged in the same activity.  I looked at him as he, too, opened his eyes.
       "Where did you go in your contemplation?" he asked.
       "I don't know," I said, "but it was definitely somewhere else."
       "You know, I've had my eye on you over the past few years," he said.
       I professed surprise at this remark, but the only thing that really surprised me was his candor.  I'd had my eyes on him, as well, but I was less forthright about this.  "I suppose I've noticed you, too," I replied, in a deliberate understatement.       
       "Do you believe in God?" he asked me suddenly.
       It was a very direct question.  "I wasn't taught to think of a God that was interested in my personal affairs, or that I could turn to for personal guidance," I replied.  "But I've come to appreciate how valuable such an attitude can be."      
       I pressed him about the interview.  "I'm finding it difficult to be patient, lately," I explained, apologetically.
       "Patience is the greatest of all virtues," he replied.  "We're all waiting to take our last breath."
         Once again I was struck by what he said.  Normally, when we think of patience as a virtue, it is relation to things we wish for in our life.  But the moment of our death is generally something that we are fending off or avoiding.  Yet, ultimately, Leonardo was right.  Death IS what we are waiting for.
         A Sufi Encounter, 3 He was noncommittal about the interview, and asked me to read a book beforehand.  The book was entitled The Last Barrier.  Its author, Reshad Field, was a evidently a British student of the Sufi path.  The book told the story of the author's initial meeting and subsequent relationship with his spiritual instructor, and his gradual initiation into the ways of this mystical order.  In the course of the narrative, the author makes contact with the Sufi, Hamid, in a very intuitive way.  Hamid is the owner of an antiquarian shop.  The author walks in one day, and asks him out of the blue if he knows anything about the Sufi path.  Hamid's initial reaction is to look at the author quite suspiciously.  He seems taken aback by the question, but then softens and treats the author very courteously.  The whole scenario was very reminiscent of my encounter with Leonardo.
         After having read the book, I tried various times to set up a follow-up appointment with Leonardo, but he was difficult to get hold of.  When I finally succeeded in finding him, he seemed very busy and asked me to come back another time.  Frustrated by his elusiveness, I was just at the point of giving up on the prospect of an interview entirely.  Almost as an afterthought, however, I looked up the web site of the Naqshbandi Order, found an e-mail address, and sent a message requesting an interview with a local member of the Order.  To my surprise, I received an almost immediate reply from an individual named Mateen Siddiqui.  He invited me to attend a Dhikr and meet Shaykh Muhammad Hisham Kabbani, the head of the Order in the United States at a place called the Haqqani Center, in Fenton Michigan.
         Fenton is about the last place I would have expected to find a spiritual retreat, much less the center of a world Islamic movement.  I drove north from Ann Arbor on US23, turned east on M59, and then north again on Fenton Road.  A gateway led past a pasture where a couple of handsome horses grazed and up to a long, brown-painted building shaped somewhat like a barn.  I went around to the back, where a large green banner was hung near the entrance.  The banner said "Al-Haqqani Center: World Islamic Conference, 1999," and around the edges were the names of participating countries from all over the Islamic world, with many former Soviet republics and republics in the present Russian Federation included.  
         The international character of the place was reinforced by the diverse nationalities of the people there, which seemed to include Saudis, Pakistanis, Lebanese, Americans, and many more that I could only guess at.  I felt as if I had suddenly transported to an Islamic-centered world, very different from the Western world just outside the gates of the retreat.  
         A Sufi Encounter, 4Eventually, Shaykh Kabbani emerged from his cottage, wearing a peaked turban and carrying a thick walking staff.  A number of men came out to greet him, having finished attending to their evening prayers.  An even greater number of women and children appeared, as well.  Finally, the assemblage entered the barn-like building, and moved down a long hall toward a stairway in the middle.  Shoes were left at the bottom of the stairs, and we ascended in our stocking feet.  The stairway led to an immense loft, decorated like a mosque with a wall-to-wall green carpet, numerous small oriental rugs, plaques and banners with Koranic verses, a prayer niche, and a throne-like chair on which Shaykh Kabbani seated himself.  Children were allowed to roam around, while the women gathered in a corner of the loft, separated from the main group by some cabinets.  
         The Dhikr was quite contrary to my expectations.  I had imagined a very restful, peaceful repetition of the word HU, the secret Islamic name for God.  But instead, the chanting was a forceful, vigorous singsong of Koranic verses, reminiscent of a campfire gathering.  Since I had some degree of familiarity with the Koran, I was able to follow along with some of the verses, but a person without such familiarity would have been quite lost.  The chanting of individual words turned out to be only a very small part of the Dhikr, although its occurrence approximately in the middle of the session seemed to indicate that it held a special significance.  Very suddenly, the Koranic verses gave way to the chanting of the word HU.  This was done with a good deal of force, in short, sharp syllables.  There was another shift to the word HAQQ, and a third shift to the word HAYY.  The word ALLAH was also chanted in this way, more forcefully than anything else.  I noticed a crescendo, during which the Shaykh literally shouted the word into the microphone at his side.  
         After the Dhikr, the Shaykh asked the adults to escort all the children out of the room, and when this had been done, he proceeded to give a discourse to the remaining audience.  There were perhaps twenty men seated on the carpet in front of him--some in scullcaps, others in peaked turbans, with short beards and long, and all in a variety of attire that seemed to reflect the diversity of their ethnic backgrounds.  I could not write Shaykh Kabbani's words down verbatim, but these were the notes I jotted down:
         "Many people today are interested in spirituality, or what we know as the Science of the Soul," he began.  "Spirituality is the source of energy that cleanses and enlightens the heart.  It is not a theory, but a taste.  Think of light that goes through a prism, and now think of that prism as your heart.  To the eyes, the light is the same.  But to the heart, the light is differentiated.  Each color has a different taste.  Just so, the light that goes through a person produces different colors…
         "Now think of your body.  Your body is made up of over a trillion cells.  Each cell is under the direction of an angel.  Think of a trillion angels, each one governing a cell of your body.  Now understand that each angel has a name, and that each name is unique, distinct from every other.  Each has a different taste…
         "The angels carry the light for every particle in existence.  The smallest particle in the world has an angel assigned to it.  If the angel were to disappear, the particle would disappear.  But angels never die, so energy can never be destroyed.  It can only be transferred…  
       "Remember that the Prophet Muhammad said: 'I have perfected your religion.'  The main essence of spirituality comes from Islam.  The saints could turn the whole world to Islam in five minutes, but they keep this power for when it is needed.  They are working to raise each follower to a new level every 24 hours.  At the time that a follower dies, he will recognize what his Shaykh has done to raise him up…
       "The heavenly light is like a rope coming down from heaven toward you,"
he concluded.  "Hold on tight to that rope…"
         A Sufi Encounter, 5I guessed that when the Shaykh talked of the different colors produced by light going through an individual, he may have been referring to the 'aura'.  And when he spoke of the heavenly light that was like a rope, I suspected he was alluding to the experience of seeing the Light of God in one's inner vision.  After the discourse, the Shaykh rose, and we all got up in unison with him.  A circle was formed, and we each approached Shaykh Kabbani to pay our respects.  Then he walked to the back of the room and sat down in a more casual posture, choosing the very seat that I had vacated.  The rest of us sat cross-legged on the floor in a rough semicircle around him.  After some brief conversation, he turned to me.
         "So, what do you think of spirituality?" he asked.
         "Well," I replied hesitantly, "if I might be permitted a question…"
         "Yes," the Shaykh nodded.
         "You spoke of spirituality, and you also spoke of religion.  What is the relationship between the two?"
         "Religion is the car, and spirituality is the gas," Shaykh Kabbani replied without hesitation.  "If the car runs out of gas, it will sit and rust in the sun, a mere heap of scrap metal.  Or, if you prefer, you may make a comparison to a nut.  Spirituality is the kernel, and religion is the shell.  The shell protects the kernel.  
         "This is a world of matter and energy.  An atom is made up of both.  It is not energy alone.  It has a nucleus, around which the electrons spin.  Every person is happy with spirituality.  But spirituality needs a structure, just as a structure needs spirituality.  Everyone needs discipline, and this is what religion provides.  The discipline of religion is the complement to the freedom of spirituality.  Both are necessary for an individual to achieve balance.
         "We have a living Shaykh, a living Master,"
he added, "who is connected with the Prophet Muhammad through a direct lineage--a continuous, unbreakable connection spanning over 1400 years.  In the field of spirituality, there is a new discovery every day.  For this reason, you cannot depend solely on the teachings of departed Masters.  If you don't have a living Shaykh, you can't get that direct connection from the heavenly source that will keep you in tune with the new realities that are appearing daily."
         A Sufi Encounter, 6More than anything else, I was struck by the openness of the Naqshbandi Order.  Their willingness to open the Dhikr to a non-Muslim like myself was unprecedented in my experience.  If I had been in an Islamic country, and sought to enter a mosque, I would normally be greeted with a good deal of suspicion.  I made this comment to Mateen, over a dinner of rice, chickpeas, and stew meat, after the service.  
         "The Naqshbandi is one of 41 Sufi orders," he said, "but it is distinct from the other 40.  All the other orders are much more specialized.  If you think of the analogy that Shaykh Kabbani made to a prism, the other 40 orders are each like a separate color in the spectrum, but the Naqshbandi order is like the pure, white light."
         "Is this what makes the Naqshbandi Order able to appeal to people in a much more universal way than the other orders?" I asked.
         "Exactly," he replied.
         My impression of the Naqshbandi Order was a very positive one.  I was struck by what seemed to me to be a similarity to New Age movements in the West, which appeal to a thirst for spirituality that many people can no longer find in their established religions.  Yet at the same time, the Naqshbandi movement is actually a very traditional one, hearkening back to a current of spirituality that has always been a part of the body of Islam.  In this sense, Naqshbandi Sufism has the potential to expand possibly more than any other spiritual movement in the world today, and deserves the attention of Muslims and non-Muslims alike.
 
Date Submitted:
1/2/04
Copyright Information:
Copyright © The Spiritual Traveler, 2001